Key takeaways
- Short answer: approve a barefoot shoe sample in gates, not with one final “looks good” message.
- This workflow is for OEM buyers and development teams.
- Before the first physical review, assign the style and revision.
Short answer: approve a barefoot shoe sample in gates, not with one final “looks good” message. First confirm the product baseline, then fit and geometry, construction, materials and colour, representative sizes, performance evidence and the production sample. Seal the final reference with matching documents before bulk release.
This workflow is for OEM buyers and development teams. The exact sample names can differ by factory; the approval purpose and evidence matter more than the label.
In this guide
Gate 0: freeze the review baseline
Before the first physical review, assign the style and revision. The sample request should identify the sample purpose, base size, last, outsole, bill of materials, colour references, artwork, construction drawings, points of measure, test requirements and any temporary substitutions.
A reference image can communicate direction, but it cannot define dimensions, tolerances, ownership or allowed changes. Mark every unresolved item. Otherwise the team may approve a sample that combines temporary materials with final-looking branding and later assume the whole build was final.
Use six approval gates
| Gate | Purpose | Evidence needed | Do not release if |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Concept and construction prototype | Confirm the last direction, sole architecture, upper panel map and assembly route. | Section drawing, prototype photographs, material assumptions and open-risk list. | The construction cannot be described or critical interfaces remain unknown. |
| 2. Fit and geometry sample | Review internal length/width, toe space, heel hold, flex location and target foot/last relationship. | Named points of measure, fitting record, wearer or fit-model context and size used. | Comments are only subjective or the measurement method is missing. |
| 3. Material and colour confirmation | Approve upper, lining, sole, trims, logo and colour as a controlled package. | Material codes, swatches or components, physical colour standards and required test reports. | The sample uses unmarked substitutions or documents do not match its batch. |
| 4. Size-set review | Check that the pattern, last, outsole and measurements grade across the range. | Selected small, middle and large sizes, measurement chart and grading comments. | Only the base size works or the grading rule is not recorded. |
| 5. Performance and compliance evidence | Confirm product-specific physical, chemical, labelling and market requirements. | Test plan, sample IDs, methods, results, deviations and destination-market review. | Reports cannot be traced to the approved construction or required results are open. |
| 6. Pre-production sample | Confirm the production-intent materials, tooling, process, workmanship, branding and packaging. | Final tech pack, bill of materials, measurement record, signed sample and production quality plan. | Any production-critical item remains temporary or undocumented. |
A project may combine gates or repeat one. Record why. Repeating a controlled engineering gate is different from remaking a sample because the current instruction was not followed.
Review measurements, fit and tests separately
Measurement review
Define each point, datum, tool, shoe condition, size and tolerance. Record both the specification and actual result. A single external measurement cannot prove internal geometry or heel-to-forefoot relationship.
Fit and use review
Record who or what the sample was fitted on, foot or last measurements, sock and insole configuration, intended activity, surface and observed issue. Fit feedback is useful evidence, but it is not a universal claim about every wearer.
Laboratory and controlled tests
Name the test method, specimen source, conditioning, laboratory, result and acceptance requirement. ISO 17709:2004 covers sample location, preparation and conditioning duration for footwear testing. ISO 18454:2018 defines standard conditioning and testing atmospheres. The report should identify which physical sample and material batch it represents.
Whole-shoe flexing, sole adhesion, outsole performance and chemical compliance may require different specimens and schedules. Plan destructive tests so the development team still retains a signed reference pair.
Use unambiguous approval status
Use a small controlled status set:
- Rejected: the sample cannot move to the next gate.
- Revise and resubmit: listed issues need a new sample, component or evidence.
- Conditionally accepted for a named purpose: the sample may support a limited action such as costing, but not bulk production.
- Approved for production: all production-critical requirements and deviations are closed in the referenced documents.
Avoid “approved with comments” unless the record explains whether those comments affect bulk release and how completion will be verified. Suppliers should not have to infer which note is optional.
Build the sealed production reference
The final sample is one part of the reference package. Seal it with:
- style, colour, size, revision and approval date on the sample tag;
- final tech pack and bill of materials;
- last, outsole and pattern revision IDs;
- measurement chart and actual pre-production results;
- approved material and colour references;
- logo, label, barcode and packaging artwork;
- test-report IDs and accepted deviations;
- buyer and supplier approval names;
- location of the buyer sample, factory counter-sample and inspection reference.
Photograph the tagged sample and key details, but do not treat photographs as a complete substitute for the physical reference. Colour, feel, internal construction and some dimensions cannot be recovered from images.
ISO 10007:2017 provides configuration-management guidance across the product life cycle. ISO 10005:2018 covers establishing, accepting, applying and revising quality plans. Together they support a simple rule: the approved configuration and the production control plan must identify the same product.
Handoff to production and final inspection
Production receives the sealed reference, current documents and a first-piece plan. Inspectors receive the same baseline plus the defect catalogue, sampling plan and product-specific checks. Private chat messages should not carry production requirements that are absent from these records.
Check the first production pieces against the pre-production sample before the line continues. Later pre-shipment inspection should use the same version and accepted deviations. If the bulk order contains a different material batch or process, assess whether re-testing is required.
Control changes after approval
Any proposed change should identify the reason, affected component and orders, old and new values, stock or tooling impact, risk, required sample and re-test. The buyer’s written approval must point to the new revision.
Do not alter the sealed sample by hand and keep the old tag. Close the old configuration, issue the new documents and seal a new reference or clearly bounded deviation. This protects repeat orders as well as the first run.
Use the sample revision decision guide when a round fails, the in-line QC checkpoints for production handoff and the custom development scope to define structural changes.
Frequently asked questions
Is a golden sample enough to start bulk production?
No. The physical sample needs matching controlled documents, materials, measurements, test evidence, deviations and a production quality plan. The sample alone cannot identify every hidden or time-dependent requirement.
Should buyers approve every size?
Define a risk-based size-set plan that covers the grading range and any tooling breaks. Review representative sizes rather than assuming the base size scales correctly, and record which sizes were physically checked.
Can a prototype become the production reference?
Only if it uses the approved production-intent configuration and passes every required gate. A prototype with substitute material, temporary tooling or open comments should stay labelled for its limited development purpose.
Primary references
- ISO 10007:2017, configuration management guidelines
- ISO 10005:2018, quality-plan guidelines
- ISO 17709:2004, footwear sample location and preparation
- ISO 18454:2018, conditioning and testing atmospheres
Build the approval record before bulk release
Send the current tech pack, sample stage and open issues. Keytop can help define the next gate and the evidence needed for a production-ready sign-off.

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